1. Obviously, remove old wallboard (if necessary), and
Tip: clean area with 50% bleach/50% water, if you have had any water damage
and there is black mold.
*A lot of what you hear about mold is really only a problem for people
who have allergies to mold. It causes us to have breathing issues/asthmatic reaction to it.
A contractor friend told us about the bleaching trick and it works beautifully!
This bathroom was fine, we just removed the wall, but I thought I’d
put this in as a tip for you.
2. What NOT to do:
Buy wallboard that is an exact fit, depth-wise, and install. There is no
depth left for the tape, plaster, and texturizing you’ll want to apply
and your repair
will stand out
from the original wall.
This is what happened the first time when Hubby installed the right side.
It was standing OUT from the wall instead of just slightly under-flush.
He ripped it out while I went and bought the 3/8″ thick
wallboard instead. (We had the 1/2″ originally.)
It is pretty cheap for an 8′ sheet (about $11)
so it won’t break the bank.
The only real cost is time and learning something new!
It may standout a bit, anyway, but you want to limit it as much as possible.
You will always know where your repairs are,
but friends and family coming over
aren’t going to be looking for your repairs
so try not to worry about it.
If you aren’t okay with that,
take down ALL of the existing drywall
and replace fully with new.
That’s the only for-sure way to get a perfect wall.
It just depends what you are comfortable living with
in your look.
3. Prep your existing walls with sanding the edges and paint off a bit
where the wallboard tape will adhere.
Clean up the inside edges of the existing wallboard
to receive the new.
Vacuum out the chunks and dust.
(My personal favorite OCD thing!)
You can find my original posting
also here in the month of May 2015.
(Sorry! This program won’t let me “link” it… 😦
4. Measure your area to fix. You’ll bemaking your piece to insert
a tiny bit smaller than the actual width. This helps it fit into the space
without being having to trim too much.
(Trim your new piece with a rasp or wallboard knife as necessary
as you dry-fit your piece along all places that need trimming.)
5. Mark off the width and length needed across your wallboard piece,
on the paper-side,
which comes conveniently in 4′ widths.
(We had our 8′ board cut in half, so we had two 4′ x 4′ sections.)
Use a long straight-edge ruler/T-square or something very straight
against which to draw your cutting line.
*Score the paper-side of your new wallboard along the cutting line
all the way through the paper.
*Gently snap the wallboard with a light taps or hits along your cut piece.
*Once it breaks across the line, lift up your wallboard and
cut across the other side where the break shows.
This will give you a pretty clean cut!
5. Starting at ground level, place something down on the ground
as a “lift” on which to place your wallboard piece as you set it into the wall.
(I used the back part of my metal spatula handle that I use for scraping things,
applying plaster, scraping off paint, etc.)
You DON’T want your wallboard touching the ground,
especially in a bathroom where water invariably splashes, etc.
You will want it up about 1/2″ or more off the ground
so it won’t suck up water and residual water.
Your baseboards will cover the gap.
6. Using drywall screws (they self-tap and are really sharp on the end to go into wood easily.), screw in your wallboard.
If needed, use
to thicken areas that need a bit more depth.
(I had to do this with 6 thicknesses up on that left-side ceiling in a couple of spots.)
Cut your wallboard shims into as large a length as needed; they are about 3′ long
to begin with, anyway.